In the centre of the independent-minded, moderately upscale market town of Otley is Mondo.
Opened in Boroughgate in 2023, Mondo is a relative newcomer but there’s still a bit of a buzz about it. My mate and Otley resident John is enthusiastic about Mondo, so to Mondo we go.
The interior of Mondo is light and airy with plenty of tables. There are window seats with high chairs which serve as perches to people-watch as you consume.
To consume: English breakfasts, American-style pancakes, burgers, subs, sandwiches, salads and veggie versions of the above. If you’ve read my reviews before you’ll know the drill; Full English if available after noon, pie and chips or burger if not. I can’t eat the whole menu (yet) but the simple stuff, I find, is indicative of the quality.
A full English is available at an unbreakfastly [that’s not a word – ed] 1.30pm so I order one. John orders a shakshuka, a Magrebi dish consisting of eggs poached in a spicy, tomato sauce.
Now the Cafe Review, issued by YorkshireLive, in association with tourism writer Dave.
- Bacon: thick, salty, becoming crisp. Good.
- Baked beans: probably Heinz. Um...beany.
- Black pudding: earthy, mainly rich. Good, occasionally moderate.
- Eggs: poached, runny. Moderate or good.
- Hash brown: pretty average. Moderate.
- Mushrooms: earthy, juicy. Good.
- Peashoot garnish thingy: Goes well with everything on the plate. Moderate.
- Sausage: Would have liked two but that’s cost of living. Moderate to juicy.
- Toast: pretty fresh, proper butter. Moderate or good.
- Tomato: juicy, tastes of something (tomatoes often don’t). Good.
Overall, it’s a good full English. It’s not a great full English but good will certainly do.
John hasn’t reviewed his lunch in the style of the Shipping Forecast which may come as a relief to you. John says: “There’s nothing sadder than a watery ‘will this do’ shakshuka, but Mondo’s gets everything right – neither too sloppy, nor too spicy, with all elements baked perfectly.
"The peppers are sweet, the onion caramelised and the tomatoes rich and jammy. And no faulting the fudgy golden yolks on the two eggs, perfect for dipping the crispy flatbread triangles into. If they weren’t fried, I couldn’t tell. Were I to pick fault with that flatbread, it would be simply to say that I wish there had been 400 pieces of it rather than four.”
So, a good full English and a very good shakshuka.
We clock the glass cabinet full of cakes and tray bakes and can’t leave without at least four. There’s a moist slice of lemon drizzle, a delightfully claggy Oreo tiffin, a pleasurably chewy chocolate brownie and an equally pleasurably chewy biscotti flapjack. John assures me the coffee is also good.
- Service: efficient, calm.
- General synopsis: Airy, friendly, moderately or very tasty. Good.
Mondo Kitchen and Coffee House, 13 Boroughgate, Otley LS21 3AG
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